408. Temples of Udyavara, Udupi

Ancient Shambhu-kallu Shiva temple. Rear side. Semicircular shaped architecture..

Udyavara (in present-day Udupi District) was an ancient port city, renowned for its flourishing marine trade with Arabs and Romans.  It is also remembered as one of the Capital Cities of famous Alupa Dynasty.   They ruled Tulu Nadu in circa 450 CE to 15th C.  We  get first reference of them in Halmidi Inscription of Hoysalas. The early history of this Dynasty is hidden in the secrets of history. 

_{There are several temples in and around Udupi, besides the famous Krishna Math Temples complex in Udupi proper. Most of them are known as Shakti-sthalas, being centres of worship of Sapta Matrikas (Seven Mother Goddesses).  Alupa dynasty was ruling erstwhile Tulu Nadu, spanning from Gokarna/Ankola/Baindur to Kasaragod and parts of Malenadu for nearly 1200 years uninterrupted though they became vassals of Kannada Kings at certain points of time in history.  They were Hindus and embraced Jainism after coming in contact with Hoysalas of Belur-Halebeedu.  They patronized both Hindu and Jain temples.  Udyavara witnesses many Hindu temples. Please visit our recent Posts on Mangod Subramanya  and Bramha Lingeshwar Temples at  Kuthpadi.}

_{The uniqueness of temples of Tulu Nadu is the inclusion of ancient divine spirits of original and later inhabitants and Naga shrines, inside the main temple for Vedic Gods.  This article gives glimpses of temples for Shiva and Mother Goddesses in Udyavara, located in between Udyavara Town Bus junction and Shri Dharmasthala Ayurveda College and Hospital (about 1.2 km  SW from Udupi).}

_{Shambhu kallu Kailaseshwar- Temple}

_{Shiva was the family-deity of Alupas at Udyavara as they were traditionally Shaivas.  This temple is built on a rocky hill and hence the popular name Shambhu-kallu Temple, facing east. Alternately, it is known as Ballaya paade. Shambhu-kallu is corrupted to Chambu-kallu, Tembukal, Tembikal, Tembkalin (or even to Sem(b)ikal) in local tongue, Tulu.  The exterior shape of this temple in the rear side   resembles the back of an elephant. ( Readers would do well if they read our Post-112, May 1, 2008: The temples of Karavali – Early Phase.)}

In ancient history, it is mentioned as ‘Shambu Shaila’ in Skanda Purana, hence the name Shaileshwara. The sign board at the entrance lane (off main road), leading to the temple on the north side of rocky hill, welcomes devotees with the description “Markandeya Pratisthapita Shri Shambhu Shaileshwara Devasthana & Shri Prasanna Somanatheshwara Devasthana."

_{Temple complex for Matrikas}

_{On western side of the aforesaid Shiva temple, there lies temple complex for seven deities, including Ganesha,  along the crossing road across the Udyavara Town-Kinnimulki - Udupi main road.  This complex is known as ‘Shambukallu Shri Virbhadra Durgaparameshwari Temple’.}

_{The main temple (facing east) is consecrated for three Mother Goddesses, namely Savitri, Gayatri and Saraswati.     The statues are ‘mrinmaya murthis’, being made of earth-soil.  The legend says these murthis were first built by Rishi Markaandeya.}

·  The Mother Goddess statues are about 7 ft. height.  They are   beautifully and attractively fashioned out of earthen soil. 
        _{Right side of these statues, the statue of Virabhadra Swami is standing in fierce mood.  He is the guardian deity of the temple.   The statue is made of red sandal wood in full size.  The statue was remade artistically during renovation of the temple and consecrated in April 2018.}

     _{Coming out from the main temple, we find two more temples:    One for Goddess Mahankali on the east in front of the main temple.  She was given a separate place outside by her sisters, as she is fond of animal blood offerings.     The other for Panjurli, popularly known as Tembikal Panjurli (or Semikal Panjurli) in local parlance, on the north, near Mahankali temple.  Devotees from neighbouring villages come here annually to give their votive offerings, despite having their own sacred ‘mancha’ or shrine for Panjurli at their households.}

·        Legend of Markandeya

The legend in Skanda Purana (Sahyadri Khand) says that these murthis were originally built by Rishi Markaandeya, who did penance here in Saraswat-vana, which is on the west of Shambhu Shaila. Shambhu Shaila with a sacred pond on its North, lies three 'yojana's to the West of Sahyadri ranges. Issueless Mrikand Muni of Sage Bhrigu clan along with wife Marudwati  meditated on Lord Shiva for a son.  They are blessed with an intelligent and pious son, destined to live a short span of sixteen years.  Sage Mrikand advises his son to pray Lord Shiva to ward off the God of Death ,Yama.  Pleased by his worship, Shiva advises Markandeya to worship Durga endowed with three qualities Satvika, Rajasa and Tamasa).  Durga (in three forms) chases away God of Death with help of Mahankali (a fierce form of Durga), Veerabhadra, Panjurli and other Shiva Ganas.

The story of Markandeya is well-known.  It is at variance with stories mentioned in other Puranas, Bhagavata and Maha Bharata.  Lord Shiva kills Yama when the noose cast to take away the soul of Markandeya, while in meditation, is entangled to Shiva Linga.  So Shiva gets the name of ‘Kaalantaka’.  There are many Shiva temples in India, connecting it to be the place of penance of Markandeya.  To cite some examples, there are such temples in Kerala, Varanasi, Kurukshetra and Yamunotri.

Perhaps, the mythological story of Durga is taken from Markandeya Purana, supposed to have been written on the Bank of River Narmada.  It is said that the earliest version of it was written around c. 250 CE.  Devi Mahatmya was added to it later on around C. 400-600 CE. 
  There is a Naaga-bana (holy grove for snakes), supposed to be the anthill ('valmika') where Markandeya did penance.   We can see his Padukas (feet), being worshipped at this place. 

Siddhi Vinayaka Temple

Going up further westward on Udyavara Town - Pithrodi Road, there is a famous Ganesha Temple.  It is said, this temple is older than the Shambu-kallu temples. Besides the main Deity, there is a separate shrine on south side, dedicated to Divine Spirit Varte.

Matrilineal System

_{Alupas were followers of matrilineal system of heritance.  Alupa King Soyideva made his nephew Kulashekhra Bankideva (son of Alupa Princess Chikkayitayi aka Krishnayitayi and Hoysala Veera Ballala III) as successor to the throne.  According to some legends Kulashekhara came to be known as Bhutala Pandya. (There are disputes in this issue regarding the real identity of Bhutala Pandya).  He introduced Aliya Santana Kattu-kattalegalu in Barkur-Mangaluru Hobalies.  His injunctions were honoured even in Courts during colonial rule (Read our Post- 311.Reflections on a Tulu Proverb: On falling of a tree).   The worship of Divine Mother and temples dedicated to her is wide-spread in Tulu Nadu.}

_{-            Hosabettu Vishwanatha}